Monday, 30 November -0001

All the buzz in Piccadilly

A new book from the Royal Grocer tells you how to put leftover jars of chutney, jam and honey (including their own roof-grown brand) to good use.

Written by Carolyn Hart
February is the kind of month when one often feels the urge to have a bit of a tidy-up – possibly even a throw-out. If you are assailed by this desire while standing in your kitchen contemplating a cupboard filled with horrible, halffull, sticky and encrusted jars of ancient jam, chutney and the like, then you might well be interested in a little book just published by Fortnum & Mason. It's called Honey And Preserves and is aimed at those who 'have longed to use the contents of their store cupboard jars in new and exciting ways'.

To enable and facilitate those longings, Fortnum's has gathered together a collection of recipes designed to use up a tablespoon of honey here, a couple of tablespoons of mustard, or onion relish and so on, there. They want you to use up your F&M condiments of course, but you can substitute leftover chutney, jam and relish from Asda or Lidl just as successfully, although it has to be said that Fortnum's honey (some of which is produced on the roof of the Piccadilly store in specially commissioned hives) is among the best you'll find in the country; you won't have to try very hard to finish that up.

There's a section on Fortnum's honeybees in the book. Swarms of native Welsh Blacks were settled on the Piccadilly roof-top in 2008 and have been occupying the elegant pagoda-style hives ever since. Their honey – made from nectar gathered in Green Park, St James's Park, Clarence House and Buckingham Palace – is harvested twice a year and sold in the store. You can visit Fortnum's webcam to see the bees (and the bee-keeper) in action.

The recipes below will help you to use up any leftover mustard, honey, raspberry jam, raspberry liqueur or marmalade. 

Honey And Preserves, Ebury Press, £10. Visit the bee webcam at www.fortnumandmason.com


HOMEMADE GRAVADLAX 

gradvalax

Serves 6

  • ½ tsp fennel seeds
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 1½ tbsp sea salt
  • 2 tbsp demerara sugar
  • 350g fresh side of salmon with its skin on
  • 10g fresh dill, fi nely chopped

For the sauce

  • 10g dill
  • 4 tbsp sunfl ower oil
  • 2 tbsp white-wine vinegar
  • 2 tbsp mustard
  • 1 tbsp runny honey

Grind the fennel seeds, peppercorns and a little salt in a pestle and mortar. Add the remaining salt and sugar and mix together. Line a chopping board with cling fi lm, place the salmon in the middle, skin-side down and sprinkle over the salt mixture. Cover with the dill. Fold over the cling fi lm and wrap the salmon well. Place the fish in a container and weigh down with cans and put in the fridge. Leave to cure for at least 48 hours or up to fi ve days.

To serve: mix all the sauce ingredients together in a bowl with 1-2 tsp boiling water. Unwrap the salmon and place it skin-side down on a board. Carve very thin slices and arrange on a platter. Serve with the sauce and soda or rye bread.


 

MARMALADE-GLAZED HAM 

ham

Serves 6-8

  • 1.2kg gammon joint
  • 1 carrot, 1 celery stick, each cut into three pieces
  • 1 onion, quartered
  • 6 black peppercorns
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 thyme sprig
  • Juice of one orange
  • 2-3 tbsp marmalade
  • Whole cloves

Put the gammon in a large pan and add enough water to cover. Add the carrot, celery, onion, peppercorns and herbs. Cover and bring the pan gently to the boil. Skim any scum from the top and discard. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 1 hour 10 mins. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C.

Take the joint out of the pan and remove the skin with a sharp knife, leaving behind a thin layer of fat. Mix together the orange juice and the marmalade and season.

Score the skin of the fat in a criss-cross fashion and push a clove into each diamond shape. Put the joint into a roasting tin and spoon over the marmalade mixture.

Roast the joint in the oven for 15-20 mins until the glaze is golden. Remove from oven, cover with foil and allow to rest for 10 mins.

To serve: carve into slices.


 

RASPBERRY TRIFLE 

trifle

Serves 6-8

  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 tbsp cornfl our
  • 50g golden caster sugar
  • 1 tbsp vanilla extract
  • 600ml milk
  • 500g raspberries
  • 12 trifle sponges
  • Around 5 tbsp raspberry jam
  • 4-5 tbsp Chambord raspberry liqueur
  • 600ml double cream
  • Icing sugar
  • 25g flaked almonds, toasted

To make the custard: mix together the egg yolks, cornflour, sugar and vanilla extract in a large bowl. Pour the milk into a pan and bring to the boil. Turn off the heat, pour a little hot milk on to the egg mixture and stir. Add the remaining milk, stirring to mix everything together. Rinse the milk pan. Return the milk and egg mixture to the pan and heat gently, stirring all the time until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Pour into a container, cover loosely and cool.

Put 200g of the raspberries in a blender and blend to a purée. Cut each trifl e sponge in half lengthways and spread the cut side with jam. Sandwich the sponges back together. Set aside some raspberries for decoration and layer the remainder in a bowl with the trifle sponges and the purée, drizzling over the liqueur with each layer. Spoon over the cooled custard. Whip the cream in a bowl with 1 tsp icing sugar until thick but soft. Spoon the cream over the custard.

Decorate with raspberries and the flaked almonds. Dust with icing sugar.




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