Wines of the week: September 28

This week I’m drinking: charitable wines

Charity can be used to flog a dodgy product. Remember those TV marathons organised by the poor of Africa to help the career of washed-up British comedians? You couldn’t complain that they weren’t funny because they were for a good cause. So my hopes weren’t high when I was contacted about Piggy Bank wines, so-called because for every bottle sold the company puts 50p into a pot that pays out to different charities each month. Its range comes from all over the world and has a picture of a piggy bank on the label. The bottles look good, most people don’t care where their wines come from and there’s the charity angle. These wines would sell if they were dull, but they’re really good. I must try to be less cynical.

Piggy Bank Grenache, 2011

The pick of the bunch for me. From the South of France this has herby flavours but with a brightness of fruit that brought to mind the best of California. Really beautiful, elegant stuff.

Piggy Bank Verdejo, 2011

This grape makes wonderful wines in Rueda in northwest Spain but all too often is a watery disappointment. This one is from nearby and is explosively delicious, combining the aromatic quality of a Sauvignon Blanc but with a rich spicy quality and a distinctive almondy finish.

Piggy Bank Syrah, 2010

From Chile this is so smoky that you’ll think your neighbour is having a barbecue, and it is just the thing with grilled meat.

Piggy Bank Tempranillo, 2011

Another Spanish one, this is meaty, robust and a little bit wild: a lot of wine for the money.

All wines cost £7.99 per bottle from Waitrose: www.waitrose.com and www.piggybankwine.com