Wines of the week: October 19

This week: The Wine Society

This week’s column is devoted to an institution that I love more than many members of my family. It’s been going since 1874 and this year won the Decanter magazine wine merchant of the year and the International Wine Challenge wine club of the year. I am referring, of course, to The Wine Society.

Whereas competitors entice drinkers with special offers (Laithwaite’s), or lower prices for frequent buyers (Naked Wines), The Wine Society simply offers unbeatable value for money. It can do this because it’s a not-for-profit co-operative owned by its members – £40 buys you one share in the company and membership for life. This means that any profit is put back into the company rather than paid out to shareholders. A secure trading base that keeps prices down at a time when the price of wine generally is soaring.

It’s no wonder that all wine writers are members. My only wish is that The Wine Society would expand into other areas, such as running the country. Here are some of their winter highlights:

Exhibition Chardonnay Tasmania 2011, £14.95 This Australian Chardonnay is elegant stuff, with a mouthful of green apples and some haunting oak.

Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 2011, £9.50 Pretty, floral off-dry Riesling from Mosel legends Von Kesselstatt.

Duas Pedras Alentejo 2010, £8.95 This unusual Portuguese red smells of aniseed and flowers, in the mouth it’s meaty and masculine, but some of that perfume comes through too.

Momo Vendimia Seleccionada, Ribera del Duero 2008, £9.50 Ribera del Duero produces some of Spain’s most expensive and prestigious wines. Leather, oak, tobacco, this is one to give the claret-lover.

All wines are available from The Wine Society: 01438-741177, www.thewinesociety.com