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Portuguese wines
Thursday, 17 January 2013
Life » Food

Wines of the week: January 18

This week, I’m drinking wines from Portugal

By Henry Jeffreys
Portuguese food, wine and culture in general really should exert more of a hold on us English. Since the 14th century our two countries have been allies – the longest alliance in history. Portugal is a popular holiday destination and, unlike package tourists to Spain, most English visitors eat the local food and drink the wine. So why don’t we drink more Portuguese wine? I think it might have something to do with Portugal having such a confusing wealth of indigenous grapes. Italy has a similar number but because each one is associated with a particular wine, Sangiovese with Chianti, Nebbiolo with Barolo etc, they become memorable. Portuguese reds, in contrast, are blends of many grapes starting with the words touriga or tinta. So despite the wines often being excellent, there’s nothing for the casual drinker to latch on to. Here are four to remember:

Crasto, Douro 2010, £8.49 when you buy two bottles: www.majestic.co.uk

Mmm, you can really smell the heat of the Douro valley with this one. There are plums, olives and tar. It’s quite tannic so best paired with rich roast meat.

Afros Loureiro, Vinho Verde 2010, £10.95: www.formulawine.co.uk

Loureiro is the grape variety. It smells of lemons and lemon rind, with something floral. In the mouth it’s light and sharp, with a distinct mineral tang.

Julia Kemper Branco, Dão 2010, £18.75: www.oxfordwine.co.uk

A white that’s the opposite of the one above. It’s rich and spicy, opulent with oak, a wine that teeters on the brink of too much but actually becomes more delicious with each sip.

Prazo de Roriz, Douro 2009, £11.95: www.tanners-wines.co.uk

A blend of the Port grapes, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, this is full-bodied but fresh, with a touch of liquorice on the nose.


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